Classic models: before you buy, you should know where to look for rust.


Author: Ron operation

If they are art in the yard, rusting on classic cars will be a beautiful thing. But for a collector of primitive shiny pigments and chrome-plated beauty, rust can make an adult cry.

Although every classical car enthusiast wants a zero-rust car, it’s hard to find an old one ten years ago without rust. Most professionals will tell you to start buying a rusty car. A rusty car is always a rusty car.

The key is to know where to look for prevalent rust and determine the extent of the damage. Is it easy to repair it?

Surface rust

Surface rust is what it sounds like: rust on the surface of a metal, usually when the paint thins and moisture in the air enters the surface. This is the easiest to repair. If found in time, it will be the least destructive. The application of a polished to bare metal and paint primer usually solves the problem and has no adverse effect on the vehicle.

Metal and metal

Pitting metal is a form of rust that has penetrated the body panel and formed pits on the surface, but it has not rusted through the metal. Although it doesn’t look good, the rust is still relatively easy to catch. Once again, grinding the surface or using wire brush to remove loose rust will get a more solid surface. A product containing phosphoric acid can be used to seal rust. After drying, it can be ground and then cover the surface with primer.

Rusted-Through panel

Very few of the rusty panels are mobile parts. Door, hood, truck and bolted fenders are the easiest to replace if rusted to no cost.

Look for bubbles in the paint, or leave rust holes in the exit door, on the lower fender behind the wheel, in the front fender, in front of the rear fender. If you can see through a piece of steel, replace it.

The bigger problem is that new replacement boards need to be welded to the right place. Some areas are not as terrible as other areas. Look at the window sill at the door, the top and bottom of the windshield, the rear window or the trunk. Although these areas may require a lot of work, no major panel replacement is possible.

Before you purchase a project, check the main structural damage. Think twice before buying, because this may indicate a major reconstruction. Check the floor under the pedal group. If some small areas are already rusty, this may be OK – but if you can see the ground below, it may be time to continue looking for a different classic car project. The main structural corrosion can be expensive, or even the end of the line of this particular vehicle.

We pointed out in all the columns that there is no substitute for a large number of research vehicles that you consider. The more knowledge and information you have, the more educated you are, and the more likely you are to complete an exciting project.


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